The History of British Shoemaking in Northampton

The History of British Shoemaking in Northampton

The History of British Shoemaking in Northampton

Northampton is more than just a market town in the East Midlands — it’s the historic heart of British shoemaking. For centuries, this unassuming corner of England has been quietly producing some of the finest shoes in the world. From military boots to handcrafted brogues, Northampton’s legacy in leatherwork and Goodyear welted shoes is unmatched. This article takes a closer look at how it all began, and why Northampton-made shoes remain a mark of excellence today.

Shoemaking in Northampton: A Legacy That Began in the 13th Century

Northampton’s reputation as a shoemaking town dates back to the Middle Ages. As early as the 1200s, the town had a growing industry of cordwainers (makers of new shoes) and cobblers (repairers of old ones). Its central location gave it easy access to cattle markets and tanneries, making it an ideal place to produce leather goods.

By the 17th century, Northampton was supplying boots to Oliver Cromwell’s army — known for their quality and reliability.

Why Northampton? Geography Meets Craftsmanship

  • Access to high-quality leather from local and imported sources
  • Proximity to water sources needed for tanning hides
  • Excellent transport links, especially with London and the Midlands
  • A deep tradition of skilled craftsmanship passed from generation to generation

The Rise of the Goodyear Welt

In the late 19th century, the Goodyear welting process revolutionised British shoemaking. This method allowed shoes to be more water-resistant and easily resoled, while still retaining quality and structure.

Northampton’s best-known makers quickly adopted the process, improving durability without sacrificing traditional style. The result? Shoes that last for decades and can be repaired time and again.

Famous Northampton Shoemakers Still Operating Today

  • Sanders & Sanders (est. 1873) – Famous for military shoes and refined country styles
  • Tricker’s (est. 1829) – Known for chunky brogues and heavy-soled boots
  • Crockett & Jones (est. 1879) – Renowned for formal shoes with fine detailing
  • Church’s (est. 1873) – One of the most internationally recognised names in men’s shoes

The World’s Appreciation for Northampton-Made Shoes

While once primarily for the British upper class and military, Northampton shoes are now worn worldwide. They’ve become staples in:

  • Luxury menswear stores
  • High-end department stores like Selfridges and Harrods
  • Film and television wardrobes
  • Fashion-forward markets in Japan, Korea, and the United States

How to Spot a Northampton Shoe

  • “Made in England” or factory stamping on the insole
  • Goodyear welt construction
  • Full-grain leather and natural linings
  • Classic English silhouettes like cap-toe oxfords, brogues, or chukka boots

Preserving a Trade in a Fast Fashion World

In a world dominated by mass production, Northampton shoemakers have resisted the temptation to cut corners. While some brands have moved production abroad, the core heritage makers remain committed to the original process: handmade, slow, and built to last.

Buyers today are returning to products that can be repaired, maintained, and cherished. Northampton’s shoemaking tradition is uniquely positioned for this return to quality.

Conclusion: More Than Just Shoes — A British Craft

Northampton’s shoemaking history is not just about footwear — it’s about pride in making something that lasts. If you own a pair of shoes made in this historic town, you’re not just buying leather and thread — you’re walking in the legacy of hundreds of years of British craftsmanship.

Written by Jake Boyle
Founder of Cathcart Elliot Shoe Trees UK — passionate about quality shoes, shoe care and craftsmanship.
Read our full story →
Back to blog